Fountain Set-up Procedure

D0160 York
D0161 Westminster
D0196 Kensington

Helpful Information for Your Building Contractor/Fountain Installer

Note:These instructions are written for the largest of the three fountains, the D161 Westminster, pictured top right. Adjust the other fountains accordingly for fewer parts. See "Special Notes" at the end for D0160 York and D0196 Kensington Estate fountains.

A. Materials Needed

1. Supplied with fountain: clear plastic hose (1/2" I.D.), black rubber plug (only for fountains where pump cord goes through the middle of the bowl); pump and Kryton "Krystol Hydrostop" sealer (if these were purchased with the fountain)
2. To be purchased: plumber's putty (building supply, hardware store), household Vaseline (drugstore, pharmacy), pump and Kryton "Krystol Hydrostop" sealer (if not purchased with fountain), and shims (e.g., pennies, metal washers, anything that can be used to progressively raise a fountain part by small increments)
   

B. Two Set-up Options

1. There are two ways to set-up and display these fountains. Many interior applications will use the first; most exterior applications will use the second.
2. Method A: The bottom pond (made of six pieces of curved coping) is filled with plants and NEVER has water in it. The largest bowl houses the pump and water falls only as low as largest bowl.
3. Method B: Bottom pond IS filled with water and the pump is placed inside the large split-ring pump housing which sits on a poured concrete pad beneath and inside the curved coping.
4. The first method of display is often used when either splashing or weight is a concern, where a poured concrete pad is not desired, or when the set-up is temporary (e.g., in a retailer's store.) The second method gives the greater effect of water movement and sound.

C. Preparation

1. Test the pump to make sure it is operational. A kitchen sink filled with six inches of water is sufficient. Only plug the pump into the electrical socket after the pump is submerged. Running a pump dry will destroy it. Also, examine any control on the pump so that once the pump is installed, you will know how to increase/decrease the water flow. Removing a faulty pump is time-consuming; it is better to know early if there is a problem with the pump. Note: if the pump does not start immediately when plugged in, first tap it gently on the side of the sink. If that does not help, unplug the pump and slide (or unscrew) the cover from the propeller. With your finger give the propeller a gentle spin. Plug the pump back in to see if it now works (without the cover.) Often this will start a pump that has been boxed and sitting for a while.
2. Touch up any scratches on the fountain pieces with touch-up stain. Let dry completely.
3. After ensuring that every piece of the fountain is absolutely dry (not in contact with rain/wet ground for several days,) water seal every piece with Kryton sealer. NOTE: If you are going to cement the six pieces of curved coping together (Method B), do not seal these six pieces until later. Working with a paintbrush be sure to cover ALL sides of every part, working methodically to ensure complete coverage.
4. Prepare the area on which the fountain will stand. Have your local contractor pour a concrete pad that will sit under the coping and form the floor of the fountain. This pad should be seven feet (7') in diameter for this English Curved Coping. Two important notes: the electrical must come up through the centre of the fountain and a drain must be installed in the floor so that the fountain can be emptied for winter. A piece of threaded plastic pipe can easily be cast into the pad with the threaded portion flush with the floor of the pad. Into that threaded portion of the pipe a threaded plug can easily be inserted for opening and closing the drain. This plug should be located about 18" from the outer edge of the pad (easily accessible, but out of sight just inside the coping) and drain into a desired area

1. Method "A" : Place the six (6) pieces of curved coping into the desired location to form a circle. (Skip now to the "C" procedure below.)
2. Method "B" : Using a piece of 3/8" plywood as a spacer, place the six (6) pieces of curved coping onto the cured concrete pad to form the edges of the pond.
   a. When the pad is poured make sure there is a pipe chase for the electrical if the pump is going in the pool and a drain placed so the pool can remain empty in winter. Classic Rock only supplies pumps for this type installation.
   b. If the pump is remote, two pipes need to be placed for water to and from the centre. Also, there is always a drain and sometimes a "fill" needed. Your local contractor or pool installer can supply you with these pumps and provide further assistance with this type installation.
   c. After the pad is dry and the pieces of curved coping are set around in a circle, pour an additional 1-1/2 to 2 inches of concrete inside the pieces of coping. Put sponge between the pieces of coping on the outside to stop the cement from coming out. This helps form a bond and seal the bottom.
   d. Then use a good hydraulic patching cement to fill in both the front and inside of the joints between the pieces of coping. This dries fast and then "pour" a good hydraulic cement into the void between the pieces of coping. The "Patching" cement in the yellow bucket from Home Depot is recommended.
   e. A second "patch" is done after the first dries which seals the seam and covers any spider cracks.
3. When this cement is dry, use some of the touch-up stain to colour the mortar in the joints.
4. When the colour and the concrete are completely dry (approximately one week in dry weather), seal the entire pool with the Kryton "Concrete and Brick Sealer." Note: water sealer placed on concrete with moisture inside it will trap the moisture, creating both an unsightly white film and a potential freezing hazard.

E. Procedure for Centre Fountain Set-up

1. Place the pump house ring (large split ring) in the centre of the concrete pad. Turn the opening toward the side least viewed. For now, set the pump house door (the completion of this ring) aside for use in covering this opening once set-up is complete.
2. Place the base of the fountain on top of the pump housing and level the top of the base using shims as necessary.
3. Place the large bowl onto the base.
4. Install the pump.
   a. METHOD "A" ONLY: Feed the pump cord down through the bowl, base and large pump housing to the bottom of the fountain. When pulling the cord through, leave about eight inches between the pump and the inside of the large bowl.
   b. METHOD "B" ONLY: Your building contractor must use a licensed electrician to install the pump. Not only must it be safe, the pump must also be accessible through the pump house door in order to adjust the flow of water and to clean the filter. It must also be removable, for cold weather.
5. Make sure the walls of the white plastic pipe in the centre of the large bowl (through which the pump cord passes in Method A) are clean. The black rubber plug needs to seat well into this pipe to prevent leakage.
6. In Method B the clear plastic tubing goes through this hole. The open area in this hole between the tubing and the white plastic pipe must be filled. Either the black rubber plug can be frozen and a larger hole drilled through it to accept the tubing, or plumber's putty can be used to fill the gap.
7. With some household Vaseline lightly coat all surfaces of the black rubber plug. Open the slit in the side of the plug and place the pump cord into the centre of the plug. Place the plug into the hole in the fountain bowl, thus making a watertight seal around the pump cord. Make sure the top of the plug is level with the top of the white plastic pipe and that the slit in the plug is completely closed. Add Vaseline to the top of the plug.
8. Level the large bowl using either a 48-inch level or a straight board with a smaller level. Shims (pennies, metal washers, etc.) must be used under the bowl to level the top.
9. Place the pump house pedestal (pedestal with a door cut into it) into the large bowl (over the pump in Method "A") and level. Turn the opening so that the pump is accessible but the opening in the side is least visible.
10. Place the middle bowl onto the pump house pedestal.
11. Take the ½ inch plastic hose and feed it through the middle bowl down to the pump (or to ground level in Method "B".) The hose should slide easily onto the nipple on the top of the pump.
12. Using "plumber's putty" seal the small area where the plastic hose does not completely fill the space through which it passes in the middle bowl. When the bowl fills with water, it needs to overflow at the edges, not trickle down the centre.
13. Now level the middle bowl; shim as needed. Sometimes, merely rotating a bowl slightly will level it.
14. Place the small pedestal into the middle bowl, sliding the plastic hose up through it as you put it into place.
15. Place the small bowl onto the small pedestal, sliding the plastic hose up through it as you put it into place. Use the putty to seal this hole, too.
16. Level the small bowl. Try rotating the bowl before shimming, as concrete casting is always inexact.
17. Make sure the plastic hose is still attached at the bottom to the pump. Then cut off the top of the plastic hose, leaving about 4 inches sticking up through the small bowl.
18. Make a roll of putty about 3/8-inch thick and about 6 inches long. Connect the ends to make a circle. Lightly press this ring of putty onto the bottom of the fountain finial (top piece.) Slide the finial down over the 4 inches of plastic hose causing the ring of putty to seal the finial into the small bowl.
19. The "scuppers" are the indented areas in the edges of bowls over which the water flows. Put an extra coat of water sealer on the top and bottom edges of each scupper. This will help to ensure water falls from each scupper into the lower bowl, rather than running over the scupper and back under the bowl (never falling at all.)
20. Fill the fountain with room temperature water. Cold water poured into a warm fountain can cause the bowls to crack. The same is true of warm water into cold bowls.
21. Plug the pump into your source of electricity, or if hardwired by your contractor or licensed electrician, turn on the power. Always use properly grounded circuits and extension cords and use only qualified tradesmen.
22. Adjust leveling of fountain bowls to gain uniform water distribution from scuppers, and adjust pump for desired water flow.
23. Reminder: Fountain bowls and pumps CANNOT BE ALLOWED TO FREEZE WITH WATER IN THEM. If used in an unheated environment (outdoors or unheated house), disassemble and store in winter. See manufacturer's bulletin on "Care and Maintenance" for more information.

Special Notes

1. D0160 York Fountain uses a small split-ring pump housing in the centre of the large bowl. The fountains D160 and D161 require a minimum pump size of P-210 and where the coping is used to hold water (Method B) a minimum of P-320 is recommended.
2. D0196 Kensington Fountain uses a small 3-hole pump housing in the centre of the large bowl. The plastic spray head with its telescopic tube goes down through the top of the pump housing and onto the pump. Fountain D196 can use a small P-80 pump (for a small spray within the top bowl) or a larger pump when more spray is desired from the sprayer head in the centre.
   
   
   

F. Adjustments Commonly Needed

1. Water does not flow evenly from scuppers around a bowl.
   a. Check each individual scupper to make sure no excess concrete is impeding water flow. Excess can be removed easily with a file or screwdriver. Touch up stain and re-seal.
   b. Adjust shims to even out the water flow.
2. Water does not flow out the top at all.
   a. Make sure the plastic hose is not kinked at some point and that water can flow freely from pump to finial.
   b. Reach into the opening in the pump housing, gently pull the pump to the opening and adjust the flow higher.
   c. Check to see if pump is correct size. Pumps are rated by the height they will raise a column of water. Under 24" need P-60 to P-80; 24" to 48" need P-140 to P-210; over 48" needs P-280 to P-380 or higher. Contact your pump supplier for accurate sizes. Remember that it is not the height of the fountain, but the height from the pump to the point where the water exits that must be measured. The inside diameter (ID) of the plastic hose also affects the height the water will rise. Any pump will push water higher in a 3/8" hose than in a ½" hose, but more volume flows from a ½" hose. Note: If a copious flow of water is desired, consider using plastic hose with a larger diameter and a larger pump.
3. Water flow is too heavy or fountain splashes too much.
   a. Decrease the flow control on the pump.
   b. Restrict the flow through the plastic hose. Many makeshift items will work, e.g., a nail bent into a "U" shape with the hose pressed inside it, a small hose clamp tightened around the hose, etc.
4. Large bowl leaks at plug.
   a. Make sure black rubber plug is pushed firmly into white plastic pipe in the large bowl, so that the top of the plug is level with the top of the pipe.
   b. If necessary, remove the water from the large fountain bowl (a wet/dry vacuum makes short work of this task), remove the black rubber plug and check with your finger to ensure the walls of the white plastic pipe are clean and free of cement. Clean the pipe (your fingernail is often tool enough), re-Vaseline the plug with cord and insert the plug into the pipe. When plug is seated properly (top of plug even with top of white pipe and slit in plug completely closed,) apply extra Vaseline to the top of the plug and the surrounding ¼" of white plastic and concrete. Ensure the pump cord is snuggly fitted and that the slit in the plug is tightly closed once seated in the pipe.
5. Top bowl(s) fills but never spills over into the lower bowl.
   a. Check to see if the water is actually running over the edges of a top bowl, but then running under the lip of the bowl. If so, several things can help.
   (1) Increase the flow of the pump.
   (2) Let the bowl dry completely and then apply Kryton Water Sealer to the scuppers (indentations in the top of each bowl over which the water flows.) The sealer encourages water not to "stick" to the concrete and not to then run under the bowl instead of falling properly into the bowl below.
   (3) When dry, apply a small line of clear silicone (common bathroom type from your building supply) about 3/16" thick under each scupper right at the point where the water should fall. This small bead of silicone will force the water to fall over it and will be invisible when the fountain is running.
   b. If water is NOT running over the edge of the bowl at all, it is leaking through the centre around the plastic hose. Turn the fountain off and re-seal the hole in the centre of the bowl (between the plastic hose and the concrete) with more putty. It would not be wise to create a permanent seal (glue, silicone, concrete), as the fountain could not be disassembled for maintenance or moving.
6. The plastic hose that came with the fountain does not fit onto the pump purchased elsewhere.
   a. Plastic hose is manufactured in sizes that allow one size to fit snuggly inside the next larger size.
   b. Measure the nipple on the top of your pump. That measurement is the ID (inside diameter) of the plastic hose you need.
   c. Usually ½" hose is supplied with the fountain. If the pump needed 5/8", all you need is a short length (4") of 5/8" hose from your building supply store. Insert that onto your pump, then place the ½" hose down inside the top of the 5/8" hose to complete the assembly.
   d. This process can also work in reverse with 3/8" hose.
   e. Another option is the purchase of a larger diameter plastic hose at your local building supply.
7. The plastic tubing keeps slipping off the nipple of the pump when I am working with the fountain.
   a. Purchase an automotive or garden "hose clamp" the same size as the tubing you are using. These can be purchased at a building supply, automotive supply or hardware store.
   b. Slip it over the end of the plastic tubing and then attach tubing to pump.
   c. Slide the hose clamp down over the junction of tube and pump, tightening snuggly with a screwdriver. Do not over-tighten.